Winnebago Micro Minnie 2108FBS (2022)

We bought this trailer brand-new in January 2024 and I've been improving it since day one.

From the get-go I replaced & sealed all plastic rivets which held the shower stall in place. The original rivets were not sealed, and many were broken straight from the factory. I also caulked all joints around the shower, bath sink, kitchen area, etc., covering all gaps that Winnebago missed. Further improvements followed.

Added a limiting strap to the tilt-out drawer under the countertop, to prevent it from opening too far and having all contents fall out.

Added a rubber mat inside the pass-through storage to protect the floor.

The original mattress was 60x74x4", and was horrible to the point of being unuseable. The storage area below it was also very inconvenient. I completely rebuilt it from 1/2" red oak plywood, incorporating four full-extension drawers, increasing the bed surface to support an 80" long mattress, adding a storage section for electrical equipment, and topping it all off with an incredibly comfortable 60x80x8", residential Juno mattress.

Behind the drawers I installed two 100ah Lithium batteries, a Renogy 40amp DC to DC charger (to charge batteries from the tow vehicle), appropriate circuit breaker, and ran 2 awg wiring to the tongue of the trailer for connection to the tow vehicle. There is room for another 2 batteries, and a possibility to change the battery setup altogether, should the need arise. On the side of the new storage unit is a Renogy battery monitor, providing live insight into battery state, consumption and charge.

Mounted a paper towel holder and a weather station in the kitchen. The weather station shows internal temperature, plus the temprature of three remote sensors, which I mounted in the propane box, fridge and freezer.

The shower received a new Oxygenics shower head, bars to hold shower essentials in place (even in transit), and a broom holder.

The trailer did not have a utensil drawer, so I built one under the microwave, relocating the original light to the underside of the drawer.

Added a backup camera to the rear.

Replaced the main fan with a 10-speed, reversible MaxxAir Deluxe fan.

Built a storage unit for kitchen essentials above the stove.

The main storage drawer under the stove was very poorly built and started falling apart. I rebuilt it from the same 1/2" red oak plywood I've used elsewhere.

Added an exterior access panel for the furnace to make servicing a breeze.

Removed the couch and added a dinette. Made new, alumninium trim for the outer edge.

The original blinds let a lot of light through and made sleeping-in impossible. Installed black-out, roll-up blinds on both windows in the bedroom, as well as the kitchen window.

The water tanks on these trailers are notorious for coming loose. The original hadware (self tapping screws) rusts and fails, resulting in dropping the water tank. To ensure that never happens, I replaced every single self-tapping screw with a proper bolt+washer+nylock setup, and ran an additional ratchet strap underneath the tank. The original angle-iron provides additional support, but was similarly improved with better hardware.

I also replaced the mildew-prone drain with PEX, and ran it closer to the side of the trailer, where it's much more convenient to reach.

The spare tire was originally mounted to the rear bumper, but this was not a great setup. In that location it added undue stress to the bumper, interfered with anything mounted in the hitch, and being a heavy weight far behind the axle, it decreased stability.

I installed a Bal-Retract-A-Spare kit to move the spare forward of the axles, underneath the trailer. It raises/lowers with a hand-crank, just like traditional vehicle tires, trailer stabilizers, etc. There is still enormous clearance underneath the spare in this location.

Added a convenient drain & valve to the water heater. A hose can now be hooked up and the heater drained neatly, without spilling water everywhere.

Removed the TV and built a pantry.

Added casters underneath the slide out, to support the slide out when it's retracted. These slide outs shake up/down in transit, and eventually break if not properly supported. The caster setup is a "set it and forget it" solution, never requiring removal, storage, etc.

Mounted two L-tracks to the "backer location" area on the trailer. These can be used to mount anything and everything, without having to drill into the trailer. Made & mounted a paper towel holder, as well as a folding shelf. Both incredibly convenient for outdoor cooking!

Replaced the original, external outlet with one that has USB ports.

The original toilet model (Dometic 300) is infamous for its design defect: it lets urine through its internal gaskets, which accumulates and starts to smell. All Dometic 300 models suffer from this problem. They are also incredibly noisy: loud creaking whenever you sit down or stand up, and no support for the lid, which drops with a bang.

I replaced the toilet with a Dometic 310, which is a porcelain model with no defects, is completely silent, and has a soft-close lid. I also added a water shut-off valve behind the toilet, to the original water line.

Replaced the original, off-centre towel bar with hooks for more towels.

Since my batteries are now under the bed, the front of the tongue had plenty of available room. I built a 1.5"-thick storage platform, covered it in Herculiner, and mounted four jerry can holders. This lets me transport water or gas as needed, and further improves trailer stability.

Another well-known weak point of these trailers is the black-water dump handle. The cable which operates this handle loops all the way under the trailer, does a 180-degree turn, and only then attaches to the actual valve which releases the liquids from the black tank. This cable seizes, and makes it impossible to apply enough force to move the valve. From buying the trailer brand-new, to seizure, we lasted an entire four uses of this handle.

I removed the original cable and replaced it with a hard rod, moving the original handle to a new location on the passenger side of the trailer. This allows for force to be applied directly to the valve, and ensures problem-free operation. The rod lives within white PEX tubing, and all openings are covered with adhesive-lined shrinkwrap, ensuring a waterproof (and thus rust-proof) setup.